Cilantro Mexican Grill and The Horseless Carriage

You are what you drive

I want to take you for a trip in the Wayback machine.  When I was in medical school, I invited two classmates from large, rectangular states in fly-over country to join me at home in L.A. for the beginning of summer vacation.  They traded their Polo shirts and Brooks Brothers seersuckers for American Gigolo style subtly muted Armani suits and jetted in to LAX.  I greeted them in my parents’ BMW 633 CSI cabriolet and we headed straight to Beverly Hills.  While sitting at a stoplight at the corner of Wilshire Blvd. and Rodeo Drive, three beautiful women flagged us down and begged us to party with them.  My incredulous friends inquired as to why these gorgeous model types would want to socialize with a shrunken head such as myself.  With a knowing wink, I replied “In The Big Orange, you are what you drive.”

I had learned this lesson painfully as a callow high school student when, in a spasm of nerdish practicality that befitted the co-captain of the math team, I chose my first car, a yellow Toyota Corolla with a vinyl Landau roof.  Here, direct from the archives of the Smithsonian, is a photographic example of this babe-repellant:

So where else in the world other than Los Angeles would one expect to find fine dining located in a gas station or a car dealership???  I picked up my producer friend Morrie Grossman in my current ride, a Tesla Model S Plaid (which I drive not because I am a technophile, not because it is prestigious, not because it is the fastest production car ever made, but because I care about the Earth, yes I care, oh so much), and we headed from his hilltop perch off Mulholland into the bowels of the San Fernando Valley.

Hidden in a Chevron station in North Hollywood is one of the finest purveyors of classic casual comfort food from south of the border, Cilantro Mexican Grill.  At first glance it appears to be combination gas station, mini mart and restaurant, but upon observing some of the patrons and taking a whiff of the outdoor bouquet, it was also possibly a brothel and dispensary.

I spoke to the founder, owner and head chef, Adolfo Perez.  Formally trained, Adolfo was the executive chef for the Los Angeles staple chain Hamburger Hamlet.  He was also the executive chef for the celebrity haunt Patys (yes, the apostrophe is missing) in Toluca Lake where he told me that he was often mistaken for his doppelganger, George Lopez.  The owner of the Chevron station is a friend of Adolfo’s.  Thirteen years ago when he wanted to put a 7-Eleven style hot dog stand in the mini-mart, the owner asked Adolfo to supervise.  Instead, Adolfo chose to put in a high-end Mexican grill despite the limitations of the space.

Adolfo is extremely selective about the ingredients with a focus on consistency and quality.  The most popular item on the menu is the surf and turf burrito with shrimp and steak.  He applies a dry rub marinade to the steak consisting of paprika, pepper, smoked cumin and lemon rind.  Not only does Adolfo differentiate himself from the mass of Mexican restaurants in the L.A. Basin by the quality of the food, he also distinguishes with the ambience; rather than the typical Mariachi music, “Fur Elise” was playing when we arrived.

We sampled two of the other popular main courses on the menu, the shrimp burrito and the carnitas torta.  In addition to shrimp, the burrito is overstuffed with black beans and Mexican rice with additional accents of onions, cilantro and salsa.  Adolfo strikes the perfect balance of firmness and tenderness in his preparation of the shrimp.  The mix of the ingredients is well-proportioned so no single element overpowers the others.  The salsa, cilantro and onions add an extra layer of flavor and moistness.

There are several available protein options for the torta, including carne asada, chicken al pastor and beef barbacoa; we chose the most traditional, the carnitas.  The slow-cooked pork is tender, juicy and flavorful.  The meat is topped with chipotle, avocado, lettuce, tomato, cheese and a unique cilantro pesto for a harmonious and delicious flavor profile.  Of course the type and freshness of the bread is crucial to any sandwich so Adolfo has fresh bread delivered daily which he grills with a barbacoa marinade.

After having more fun, fun, fun cruising the Valley, our next stop was Galpin Ford in Van Nuys.  Galpin Ford opened in 1946 to service the automotive demands of the post-World War II suburban explosion.  In 1966, the Horseless Carriage Restaurant was introduced and Galpin became the first auto dealership to offer its customers a full-service restaurant on premises.  By appearances it is a classic diner, but it offers more than classic American diner food with a twist.

Unfortunately, the concept of The Horseless Carriage exceeds the execution.  Morrie ordered the Salmon Caprese Salad with pan seared salmon, sliced tomatoes, mixed greens, mozzarella and basil topped with balsamic dressing while I chose the Prime Rib Sandwich—thinly sliced prime rib smothered with sautéed onions on ciabatta bread.  Both are beautifully presented but the flavors were pedestrian, unexpected for an auto dealership.

To complete the diner experience, we ordered vintage style desserts of chocolate cake and fresh peach pie.  Once again, the appearance surpassed the taste.

With restaurants, just like in the auto business, you win some and you lose some, there are hits and there are misses, there is trial and there is error.  You just hope to come out 50/50, even Steven.